The resulting engine was designed by Nissan from scratch, and shared few mechanical components with its predecessor, or with any other automaker.Įxtensive computer design techniques were used during development, which made the VG series one of the most advanced and high-tech engines of its day. Nissan engineers wanted the VG to have improved performance, fuel economy, reliability, and refinement, while being both lighter and more compact than its predecessor. The objective was to replace the inline 6 Nissan L engine, which traces its roots back to the Mercedes-Benz M180 engine introduced in 1951, with an all-new V6. Early versions used SOHC cylinder heads with two valves per cylinder later models featured DOHC cylinder heads, four valves per cylinder, a slightly different engine block and N-VCT, Nissan's own version of variable valve timing, delivering a smoother idle and more torque at low to medium engine speeds.īoth production blocks and head castings were used successfully in the Nissan GTP ZX-Turbo and NPT-90 race cars which won the IMSA GT Championship three years in a row.ĭevelopment of the VG series began in 1979 by Nissan Machinery, a former member of the Nissan Group keiretsu. Nissan's and Japan's first mass-produced V6, the iron block/aluminum head 60° VG engine was produced in displacements between 2.0 and 3.3 liters. The VG engine is a family of V6 engines designed and produced by Nissan between 19. So I was told to re-ground my MAF since its "floating in the air" (custom intake) and I did but still bogs like no other, not really a bog, but more like TONS of fuel.Single Eaton Roots-type M62 (2001-2004 VG33ER) I had the hood open and had 1 hand on the MAF, and one hand on I think the TB, and I revved the motor up, and got ZAPPED, freaking electricity (HIGH voltage) went through my body, i couldnt feel my arms for over 5 mins, the higher the engine rpms went the more the MAF zapped me, wtf is that all about? I bought 6 NGK V-power resistor type spark plugs, im i guess going to keep the gap the same?īy the way, I bought and installed a new bosch 02 sensor like previously stated, and now my idle is ROCK SOLID and the "bogging" decreased by like 20% but it still bogs up to the point now that if im in 2nd gear lets say at 3k rpms driving, and I go 30mph (cruising), and I go WOT (wide open) the engine is creating ZERO whp, its actually DE-celerating, the rpms go down and its giving off the "im getting ZERO fuel and only air" sound, another way to do this is to be driving and take ur key out (engine off but still spinning) and try to throttle it with it off but spinning (vehicle is moving) its just the "air sucking in to the motor and in to the cylinders" sound, its the EXACT same thing. Another thing, if im cruising, lets say in 4th at 40mph (2000 rpms), and i downshift to 2nd (now at 4000 rpms), and go WOT it takes like 1 second of bogging down (sounds like to much fuel?) and then the motor will "clear out" and run perfect, wtf is going on?ġ986 Nissan 300zx NON TURBO 5 speed VG30E. Thats Quicktime format (from my cell phone)Īnyways, whenever i go wot or engine is either under or not under load, it feels like its running SUPER rich, it cuts out on me, and lets say im at a stop light and go WOT in nuetral, the motor takes a few seconds to get to 6k, in between idle and 6k it runs like it has a little bit of water in the cylinders (an example), its really weird, it feels like as if its dumping WAY to much fuel in to the motor and the plugs cant fire the incoming fuel or something?Īnyways if you keep it WOT in nuetral or driving long enough, the motor will "clear out" and will run perfect if kept at WOT. Hey guys, first off all, I made a video, to show whats wrong:
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